The Eden Dress part two – or how not to treat your handsewn clothes
Hotline: Welcome to the sewing hotline, how can I help you?
Me: Good morning and I am so happy to have finally reached you. I
made a dress and it does not fit. Again. What shall I do, please, I need
Hotline: Take a deep breath and evaluate the situation. Is there an accident? Is someone hurt? Can you see open seams or are entrails of the sewing machine spilling on the table?
Me: No, but it’s the dress. It is actively misbehaving. It’s sliding
down my shoulders and the waist is wobbling around. I have done so much
for it. I have reattached the skirt part to the body and found the exact
spot to get this low waist fit from the last time I sewed it. But now other problems surface. I am so sad and angry. Please I need help.
Hotline: This is a case of domestic sewing abuse (silently mumbling
something like „But I am not sure who is abusing whom… poor dress“)
there is a fixed procedure we have to go through. First get away from
Hotline: Please take off the dress and step away.
Me: Ok. I have put it on the table….. But it is looking hatefully at me.
Hotline: Please describe in short words the problem.
Me: This dress… I wanted to have a dress for Christmas. And I found
this book and all the dresses looked so nice, but it is in Netherlands,
which I don’t understand and so I improvised and …
Hotline: I understood the word ‚improvised‘. Mostly this indicates
that the dress and pattern are ok, but the sewist thought she is
cleverer than the designer. You know that changing parts of a design
will lead to a different overall fit?
Me: Arrrrghhhhhh. I am not stupid! But what shall I do? I have thick
arms and a near to nothing bustline. I always need to widen the sleeves
and than have the problem that the width at the bust is to big. I was
clever this time and measured the paper pattern before cutting the
fabric. And as the sleeves were super small, I have chosen a bigger
size. Now the sleeves fit wonderfully but the shoulders are to wide and
the bust and waist too.
Hotline: Ok, thank you that is helping. So, have you tried to take the sides in?
Me: Yes. This was my first idea. I tried it three times. At first, I
simply made another seam parallel to the existing seams along the side.
That led to a smaller silhouette but also to big folds under the armpits
and a strange bulge at the hip. Not better! The next two times I tried
to take the dress in only at the bust area which again did not fit. Now
the neckline seemed even wider than before. And the folds under the
armpit are still there.
Hotline: Is it possible that you have cut out the wrong size? I think
you should have cut out the body and the skirt two sizes smaller but
using the bigger size for the armhole height and sleeve width. So, what
you must do now is unpick the whole dress and ….
Me: No way!
Here the transcript ends abruptly, and I strongly advise you against calling this hotline.
I silently sewed the neckline and the hem of this dress and will donate the pattern to a friend.
Disclaimer: no dresses were hurt during the sewing process. The
finished dress will be loved and taken care of. It is the Eden dress
from La Maison Victor. I made it in a modified size 44. If you want to
read more about my sewing process, hop to the first part of this post.
This is an addendum for @marblely
Neckline and heart shaped waffle recipe 💕🌈
The neckline of the white dress is 92 cm wide and my fabric very
stretchy. To get the right measurements for the neckband I used this
92 x 0,7 = 64,4 cm
As I need two seems for the neckband, I added 1,6 cm, means I cut out
two rectangles each 33 cm wide and 5 cm high. I sewed them into a ring
which I folded in half and ironed it. So that I can distribute it evenly
while stretched out I marked every quarter of the neckband with pins. I
then pinned it onto the neckline while stretched. First I sewed it on
with a zig-zag stitch and checked the fit which is ok for me (I am not a
neckband perfectionist :-DDD ) and then I top stitched it with a
straight stitch. I am not sure if this description helps you? I guess
the most important thing is to get the width correct (not too wide) but
as you could read above, I am far from accomplished in sewing something
that fits (perfectly) 😀
And if you need a bit of sweetness, this is the waffle recipe:
You need a non sticking waffle iron for baking powder waffles (not the
one for yeast waffles which is madeof cast iron). I use one which is
distributed into 5 hearts, but every other form works fine 😀
The recipe I mostly use is this one:
3 eggs room temperature
125 g warm butter
125 g sugar
200 g flour
50 g starch
1 tsp baking powder
125 ml full fat milk
¼ tsp salt
Vanilla and citrus peel (or flavor)
Cream the butter and sugar together. Mix the eggs into the mixture
(cream every single egg before adding the next one). Add salt and
flavors. Mix and sift the flour and baking powder and add it alternating
with the milk to the egg/butter/sugar mixture. Don’t over mix the
flour, just incorporate.
Bake the waffles according to the waffle iron and let them cool
separately (they will get soggy if they lay on one another). Serve with
cream and hot cherries (cooking preserved cherries with vanilla pudding
mix and rum or rum flavor) and vanilla ice-cream.
While writing the recipe… I think I must fetch my waffle iron and bake some myself.
Thank you Silvia for being such an awesome hotline operator and for the wonderful photos.